A loud grinding, roaring, or screeching noise during the spin cycle on a Kenmore 11047512602 front-load washing machine almost always points to a failing tub bearing. The bearing supports the tub as it spins, and once its protective seal wears out and lets water in, the bearing corrodes and starts grinding metal on metal. This is one of the more advanced washer repairs, since it requires major disassembly and often replacing the bearing together with the tub or drum assembly rather than the bearing alone.

This guide explains what the tub bearing does, how to recognize bearing failure, what tools and parts are usually needed, and the overall replacement process for the Kenmore 11047512602.

What Does the Tub Bearing Do?

The tub bearing sits at the center of the outer tub and supports the shaft that the inner drum spins on. It allows the drum to rotate smoothly and quietly at high speed during the spin cycle. The bearing is protected by a water seal that keeps wash water out of the bearing cavity.

Because the bearing handles constant rotational load every time the washer runs, it is a wear part. Once its seal fails and water gets inside, the grease washes out and the bearing begins to corrode and seize.

Common Causes of Bearing Failure

• Worn or failed bearing seal: This is the most common root cause. Once the seal degrades, water seeps into the bearing cavity and washes away the lubricating grease.

• Age and cumulative wear: Like any mechanical bearing, it eventually wears down after years of regular rotation, even under normal use.

• Consistently overloaded washer: Excess weight places additional strain on the bearing and shaft with every spin cycle.

• Corrosion from prolonged water exposure: Once water and grease mix inside the bearing cavity, corrosion spreads quickly and the grinding noise usually worsens with each load.

• Prior gasket or seal leaks left unaddressed: A leaking door boot gasket or tub seal that goes unnoticed can contribute to moisture reaching the bearing area.

Signs Your Washing Machine Has a Bad Tub Bearing

Common Symptoms

• A loud grinding, roaring, or screeching noise that is most noticeable during the spin cycle

• The noise gradually gets louder and more frequent over successive loads

• The washer may also leak water from the bottom near the transmission or tub area

• Spinning the drum by hand with the washer unplugged reveals resistance, grinding, or a rough feel instead of smooth rotation

Quick Diagnostic Checklist

• Unplug the washer and manually rotate the drum. It should spin freely and smoothly. Any grinding, catching, or resistance points toward the bearing.

• Check for side-to-side play in the drum by gently pushing and pulling it. Excess movement suggests a worn bearing.

• Rule out suspension rods and springs first, since a sagging tub from worn suspension parts can sometimes create a similar scraping sound.

• Confirm the noise happens specifically during spin and not during agitation or drain, which would point to a different part like the pump or clutch.

Parts and Tools Needed

Safety Precautions Before You Start

• Unplug the washing machine and shut off the water supply before beginning any work.

• This repair involves removing and supporting a heavy tub assembly, so work with a second person if possible.

• Take photos at each disassembly stage, since bearing replacement involves removing far more components than most washer repairs.

• Recognize before starting that this is one of the most involved washer repairs. If the tub and drum need replacement along with the bearing, factor that cost and complexity into the decision first.

Step-by-Step Bearing Replacement Overview

1. Confirm the bearing is the problem. Unplug the washer and manually spin the drum, checking for grinding, resistance, or excess play before committing to a full teardown.

2. Remove the front panel and door assembly. Disconnect the door boot gasket clamp and door lock wiring, then remove the front panel to gain access to the tub.

3. Disconnect the suspension system. Detach the suspension springs or rods and shock absorbers that support the tub, and keep track of their orientation for reassembly.

4. Remove the drive belt and motor connections. Disconnect the drive belt from the tub pulley and unplug the wiring harnesses connected to the motor and related sensors.

5. Remove the tub assembly. With the suspension, belt, and wiring disconnected, carefully lift the tub assembly out of the cabinet. This is usually a two-person task because of the weight involved.

6. Separate the tub halves and access the bearing. Remove the fasteners holding the front and rear tub halves together to expose the bearing housing at the rear.

7. Remove the old bearing and seal. Use a bearing puller or press to remove the worn bearing and seal from the housing. This often takes significant force because the parts are tightly pressed in.

8. Install the new bearing and seal. Press the new bearing and seal into the housing evenly, using a rubber mallet or press to seat them fully without damaging the surrounding tub.

9. Reassemble in reverse order. Rejoin the tub halves, reinstall the tub assembly into the cabinet, reconnect the suspension system, drive belt, and wiring, and reinstall the front panel and door boot gasket.

10. Test the washing machine. Restore power and water supply, then run a full cycle, paying close attention to whether the grinding noise is gone during spin.

How to Test After Replacement

• Run an empty spin cycle first and listen for any remaining grinding or roaring noise.

• Manually rotate the drum once reassembled, before running a full cycle, to confirm that it spins smoothly.

• Run a normal load afterward and check underneath the washer for leaks, which can indicate an improperly seated seal.

• If grinding persists after replacement, double-check that the tub halves were seated and secured correctly, since a misaligned bearing can continue to make noise.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

• Replacing only the bearing without the seal, which often leads to another failure in a shorter time

• Trying to press in the new bearing without the proper tools, which can damage the bearing or the tub housing

• Skipping suspension and drive belt inspection while everything is already apart, even though this is the easiest time to inspect those wear items

• Underestimating the scope of the repair, since it involves much more disassembly than most washer fixes

• Not checking whether the manufacturer sells the bearing paired with the full tub assembly, since pressing a new bearing into a worn housing can still result in noise

Maintenance Tips to Prevent Future Bearing Problems

• Address any door boot gasket or tub seal leaks promptly, since prolonged water exposure is a major cause of bearing seal failure.

• Avoid consistently overloading the washing machine, since excess weight adds strain to the bearing with every cycle.

• Address unusual noises early. A bearing caught sooner is still a significant repair, but waiting until it fully seizes can damage the tub or motor shaft.

• Keep up with regular cleaning cycles to reduce residue buildup that can contribute to premature wear on internal components.