A GE electric PP975SM3SS cooktop surface element that will not heat is usually caused by cookware that is not making full contact with the surface, a loose wire connector under the cooktop, or a burned-out radiant element itself, all of which are quick to check without special tools. If the element still will not heat after those checks, the problem is typically the daughter relay board or the power supply relay board that controls current to that specific zone, and both are replaceable parts rather than a sign you need a new cooktop.

What's Behind This Problem?
1. Cookware Isn't Making Full Contact With the Element
Radiant elements need flat-bottomed cookware sitting fully on the glass to transfer heat properly. Warped, small, or bowed pans can sit unevenly over the element and make it seem like the element itself is not working.
2. Loose or Corroded Wire Connector at the Element
Each radiant element connects to the cooktop's wiring harness through a plug-style connector underneath the glass. Heat cycling over time can loosen this connector or corrode the contacts, cutting power to just that one zone while the rest of the cooktop works fine.
3. Burned-Out Radiant Surface Element
Like an incandescent bulb, radiant elements eventually burn through their internal coil. This is the most common actual part failure and usually shows as one zone being completely dead while the others heat normally.
4. Failed Daughter Relay Board
This board controls the relays for individual burner zones. When it fails, it typically affects one or two specific elements rather than the whole cooktop, since each relay on the board governs a separate zone.
5. Failed Power Supply Relay Board
This is the main board that distributes power to all the relay-controlled zones. A failure here is less common but tends to affect multiple elements at once rather than just one, and is usually the last thing to check.
Also Read: GE PP975SM3SS Cooktop Touch Controls Not Responding? Troubleshooting and Reset Tips
DIY Fix: Step-by-Step Repair Instructions
Tools You'll Need
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Phillips and flathead screwdrivers
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Multimeter
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Replacement radiant element
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Replacement daughter relay board, if needed
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Replacement power supply relay board, if needed
Safety Notes
Disconnect power at the circuit breaker before removing any element or accessing wiring underneath the cooktop, not just at the wall switch. Let the cooktop fully cool before handling any element, since radiant elements retain heat well after use. Never test an element for continuity while it is connected to power.
Diagnostic Table
| What You're Seeing | Likely Cause | Go To |
|---|---|---|
| Only that pan seems to not heat, others work fine with the same cookware | Cookware contact issue | Step 1 |
| One zone dead, connector area looks fine, other zones normal | Loose or corroded wire connector | Step 2 |
| One zone completely dead, element shows visible damage or discoloration | Burned-out radiant element | Step 3 |
| One or two specific zones dead, element and connector test fine | Failed daughter relay board | Step 4 |
| Multiple zones dead at once, board area shows no obvious damage | Failed power supply relay board | Step 5 |
Step 1: Check Cookware Fit and Contact
Use a flat-bottomed pan that matches or slightly exceeds the size of the element zone, and set it directly on the glass without a warped base rocking against the surface. Test the same zone with a different pan you know works well on other burners to confirm whether the issue follows the pan or the element.
Step 2: Inspect and Reseat the Wire Connector
With power disconnected at the breaker, lift the cooktop per your installation manual to access the underside wiring. Locate the connector for the affected element, unplug it, check for corrosion or discoloration on the pins, and reseat it firmly. Clean light corrosion with a dry cloth before reconnecting.
Step 3: Test and Replace the Radiant Element
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Disconnect power at the breaker.
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Remove the affected element from its mounting clips or screws per your installation manual.
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Set a multimeter to the ohms setting and test continuity across the element's terminals. A reading of infinite resistance or no continuity confirms it is burned out.
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Install the correctly sized replacement element, for standard radiant zones or for triple or halogen zones, matching the original part number where possible.
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Reconnect the wiring harness, secure the element in its mounting position, and restore power.
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Test the zone before considering the repair complete.
Step 4: Replace the Daughter Relay Board
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Disconnect power at the breaker.
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Access the board per your installation manual, typically located underneath the cooktop near the control area.
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Photograph or label the wire harness connections before disconnecting the old board.
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Remove the mounting screws and take out the old daughter relay board.
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Install the new board, reconnect the harness exactly as it was, and secure it in place.
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Restore power and test all zones controlled by that board.
Step 5: Replace the Power Supply Relay Board
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Disconnect power at the breaker and confirm with a multimeter that there is no voltage at the board.
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Access the board per your installation manual.
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Disconnect the wire harness and any ribbon cable connections, noting their positions.
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Remove the old power supply relay board and install the new board.
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Reconnect all wiring exactly as it was and restore power.
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Test every zone on the cooktop, since this board affects power distribution across multiple elements.







