A GE PP975SM3SS cooktop burner cycling on and off in a steady, predictable rhythm is normal behavior, since radiant elements switch power on and off to hold a set temperature rather than running continuously. If a zone cycles irregularly, rapidly, or differently from your other burners at the same setting, the cause is usually a faulty relay on the daughter relay board, a loose wire connection at the element, or cookware causing the element to overheat and trip its internal limiter early, and all three are things you can check without replacing the cooktop.

Why Is My GE Cooktop Burner Cycling On and Off?
1. Normal Thermal Cycling (Not a Fault)
Radiant elements do not run at a constant output. Instead, they cycle fully on and off to average out to your selected heat level, and this is confirmed as expected behavior across GE's own smoothtop cooktops. On lower settings, the element spends more time off than on, which can look alarming if you are used to gas burners but is completely normal.
2. Faulty Relay on the Daughter Relay Board
This board holds an individual relay for each burner zone. When a single relay starts sticking or firing erratically, that specific zone will cycle irregularly compared to the others, even though they are all set to the same heat level.
3. Loose or Corroded Wire Connection at the Element
A weak connection at the element's plug-style connector can cause intermittent contact, which looks like rapid or random cycling rather than the smooth rhythm of normal thermal cycling. This tends to get worse with heat expansion during cooking.
4. Failed Power Supply Relay Board
If several zones are all cycling irregularly at the same time, rather than just one, the board that distributes power to all the relay-controlled zones is the more likely source, rather than a single relay or connector.
5. Cookware Causing the Element to Overheat and Trip Its Limiter Early
Radiant elements have a built-in high-limit thermostat that cuts power if the element gets hotter than it should, as a safety measure. Cookware with a warped or undersized base can create hot spots that trip this limiter prematurely, producing rapid, irregular cycling tied specifically to that pan.
How to Diagnose and Fix Irregular GE PP975SM3SS Burner Cycling
Tools You'll Need
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Multimeter
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Phillips and flathead screwdrivers
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A second, known-good pan for comparison testing
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Replacement daughter relay board, if needed
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Replacement power supply relay board, if needed
Safety Notes
Disconnect power at the circuit breaker before accessing any wiring or boards underneath the cooktop. Let the cooktop cool fully before handling any element. Never test wiring or a board while the cooktop is connected to power.
Diagnostic Table
| What You're Seeing | Likely Cause | Go To |
|---|---|---|
| Element glows, goes dark, glows again in a steady rhythm, with more off-time on low settings | Normal thermal cycling | Step 1 |
| One zone cycles rapidly or irregularly, unlike the others at the same setting | Faulty relay on daughter board | Step 2 |
| Cycling is inconsistent, flickers, or the zone drops out briefly at random | Loose or corroded wire connection | Step 3 |
| Multiple zones cycle irregularly at once | Failed power supply relay board | Step 4 |
| Zone cycles rapidly only with certain cookware, fine with others | Cookware causing premature limiter trips | Step 5 |
Step 1: Confirm Whether the Cycling Is Actually Normal
Watch the affected zone at a low and a medium setting. If it cycles in a steady, repeating rhythm, with longer off-periods on lower settings, this is expected behavior and not a fault. Compare it to another zone on your cooktop at the same setting to confirm they behave similarly.
Step 2: Replace the Daughter Relay Board
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Disconnect power at the breaker.
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Access the board per your installation manual, typically underneath the cooktop near the control area.
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Photograph or label the wire harness connections before disconnecting the old board.
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Remove the mounting screws and take out the old daughter relay board.
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Install the new `WB27T10891` board, reconnect the harness exactly as it was, and secure it in place.
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Restore power and observe the affected zone through a full cycle to confirm normal, steady behavior.
Step 3: Inspect and Reseat the Wire Connection at the Element
With power disconnected at the breaker, access the underside wiring and locate the connector for the affected element. Unplug it, check for corrosion or discoloration on the pins, clean lightly if needed, and reseat it firmly. Replace the connector or element if the damage looks significant rather than just reseating it.
Step 4: Replace the Power Supply Relay Board
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Disconnect power at the breaker and confirm with a multimeter that there is no voltage at the board.
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Access the board per your installation manual.
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Disconnect the wire harness and any ribbon cable connections, noting their positions.
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Remove the old power supply relay board and install the new power supply relay board.
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Reconnect all wiring exactly as it was and restore power.
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Test every zone on the cooktop to confirm consistent cycling behavior across all of them.
Step 5: Rule Out Cookware as the Cause
Switch to a flat-bottomed pan you know performs well on other burners and run the same zone at the same setting. If the cycling becomes steady and predictable with the new pan, the original cookware was likely causing localized overheating rather than the cooktop having a fault.







