The Samsung DW80CG5451S is a 24-inch built-in dishwasher from Samsung's mid-range lineup. It features a stainless steel tub, which retains heat more effectively than plastic tubs and contributes to better drying performance. The unit is Energy Star certified and offers a capacity of 15 place settings, making it a practical choice for households that run the dishwasher daily.

This guide covers the core specifications of the DW80CG5451S, explains the most common error codes and symptoms, and walks through the most important troubleshooting and repair procedures for cleaning issues, draining problems, drying failures, leaks, and the most frequently replaced parts.

Key Specifications

• Tub material: Stainless steel

• Capacity: 15 place settings

• Wash cycles: Auto, Normal, Heavy, Express 60, Rinse, Self Clean

• Drying system: AutoRelease door-open drying with optional heated dry

• Noise level: 48 dBA

• Energy Star certified: Yes

• Third rack: Flexible, adjustable top rack for utensils and tall items

• Connectivity: SmartThings app compatible via Wi-Fi

Compatible Model Variants

This guide applies to the following model strings:

• DW80CG5451S/AA (standard US release)

• DW80CG5451BTAA (black stainless finish variant)

These models share the same internal components and repair procedures. If your unit has a slightly different suffix, verify the part number against your model label before ordering.

Where This Model Sits in Samsung's Lineup

The DW80CG5451S belongs to Samsung's CG series, which sits above the entry-level DB series but below the premium WB and WF series. It offers stainless steel construction, AutoRelease drying, and smart connectivity without the added cost of steam or Zone Booster features found on higher-tier models. For most households, it represents a solid middle ground between price and performance.

Common Error Codes on the DW80CG5451S

When the Samsung DW80CG5451S detects a problem, it displays a two-character code on the control panel. Understanding what each code means is the fastest way to identify the faulty component and decide whether a reset or a part replacement is needed.

4C / 4E: Water Supply Issue

The 4C or 4E code appears when the dishwasher cannot detect adequate water flow within the fill timeout period. The most frequent causes are a household shutoff valve that is not fully open, a kinked or pinched inlet hose behind the unit, or low home water pressure below 20 psi. In some cases, a clogged inlet valve screen is the culprit. Start by turning off the unit, pulling it slightly forward, and visually confirming the supply hose has no tight bends. Turn the shutoff valve fully counterclockwise to open it completely, then restart a wash cycle.

OC / 0C: Overflow Detected

The overflow sensor is a float switch located in the base tray of the unit. When water accumulates in the tray, it lifts the float and triggers the OC code. This can happen from an actual slow leak, from over-sudsing caused by using regular dish soap instead of dishwasher detergent, or from a stuck inlet valve that continues to let water in after the fill phase. Press and hold the Start/Pause button for three seconds to initiate a drain cycle. If the code clears, run one cycle with no detergent to flush residual suds. If it returns, inspect the base pan for standing water and trace the source.

LC / LE: Leak Sensor Activated

This code indicates the moisture sensor in the base pan has detected water. Unlike the OC code, the LC code does not require water to reach a float level; even a small amount of moisture can trigger it. Common sources include a cracked or compressed door gasket, a loose drain hose connection at the sump, or a failing water inlet valve. Pull the unit out from the cabinet and tip it gently forward, with towels placed first, to check the base pan for standing water. The door gasket is one of the most common causes.

HE: Heating Element Fault

The HE code appears when the control board does not detect the expected temperature rise during the wash or sanitize cycle. This usually points to an open circuit in the heating element. A healthy Samsung dishwasher heating element typically reads between 10 and 30 ohms. A reading of OL or infinite resistance means the element has failed and should be replaced. A faulty thermistor can also cause this code by reporting the wrong water temperature.

tE: Thermistor Fault

The thermistor is a small temperature sensor mounted in the sump assembly. It tells the control board the current water temperature so the board can regulate heating. When the thermistor reads an out-of-range value, the board displays a tE code. At room temperature, a working Samsung dishwasher thermistor usually reads about 5,000 to 6,000 ohms at 68 degrees Fahrenheit. A value far outside that range indicates failure.

How to Clear Error Codes

For a soft reset, press and hold the Start/Pause button for five seconds until the display clears. For a full power-cycle reset, open the door, press the Power button to turn the unit off, then disconnect power for 60 seconds. Restore power, close the door, and run a short cycle to confirm the error is resolved. If the same code returns within a few cycles, the underlying component needs repair or replacement.

Why Is My Samsung DW80CG5451S Not Cleaning Dishes Properly?

Poor wash performance on the DW80CG5451S almost always traces back to one of four areas: the spray arms, the wash filter, the detergent dispenser, or the water inlet system. Work through these in order before assuming the unit needs a major repair.

Spray Arms: How They Work and How to Clean Them

This model uses three spray arms: a lower arm under the bottom rack, a middle arm beneath the upper rack, and a small upper arm near the top of the tub. Each spins from pump pressure and sprays water through small jet holes. When those holes clog with food debris or mineral buildup, spray pressure drops and cleaning suffers.

To clean them, remove both racks, unscrew the lower arm counterclockwise, and lift the middle arm off its clip. Use a toothpick or thin wire to clear each spray hole, rinse the arms under warm water, and inspect the hubs for cracks or wobble. Reattach the arms and make sure they rotate smoothly by hand.

Wash Filter Assembly: Role, Cleaning Frequency, and Replacement Signs

The filter at the bottom of the tub traps food particles so they do not recirculate. Samsung recommends cleaning it about once per month under normal use. A clogged filter restricts flow to the pump and lowers spray pressure across the whole wash cycle.

Signs the filter needs cleaning include gritty residue on dishes, bad odors, and standing water after the cycle ends. If the mesh screen is torn or the housing is cracked, replace the filter assembly instead of cleaning it.

Detergent Dispenser: How It Works and Common Jam Causes

The dispenser door opens during the main wash phase. If it fails to open, detergent stays trapped and dishes come out greasy or cloudy. The most common causes are a broken latch spring, a corroded actuator, or detergent residue that blocks the door from opening.

To test it, place detergent in the compartment and run a cycle. At the end, check whether the dispenser is empty. If detergent remains, inspect the spring and actuator with power off, and clean away any hardened detergent. Overfilling the dispenser or using gel detergent in humid conditions can also cause sticking.

Water Pressure: Inlet Valve Blockage Versus Low House Pressure

Adequate water flow is essential for spray arm performance. The DW80CG5451S needs household water pressure between 20 and 120 psi. If pressure is too low or the inlet valve screen is clogged with sediment, the unit may underfill and lose wash power.

To check the inlet valve screen, shut off the water supply, disconnect the hose from the back of the unit, and inspect the mesh screen inside the valve port. If it is dirty, rinse it clean. If the valve body itself looks corroded or cracked, replace the full valve assembly.

Samsung DW80CG5451S Not Draining: Causes and Fixes

If the dishwasher finishes a cycle with standing water in the bottom of the tub, the drain path is blocked somewhere between the pump and the household drain. The drain system on this model includes the drain pump, the drain hose, and a check valve or drain flapper.

Drain Pump: Humming vs. Dead Symptoms

The drain pump forces used water out of the tub. If it fails, you will usually hear either a hum or buzz with no draining, which often means the impeller is jammed, or complete silence, which often means the motor winding is burned out. A humming pump may have glass or debris lodged in it. A silent pump usually needs replacement.

Drain Hose: Kinks, High Loop, and Garbage Disposal Knockout

Two installation issues commonly cause drainage problems. First, if the hose sags too low without a proper high loop, dirty water can siphon back into the tub. Second, if the dishwasher drains into a newly installed garbage disposal, the knockout plug inside the disposal inlet may not have been removed.

Check that the hose loops upward before descending to the drain and inspect the disposal inlet for the factory plug if applicable.

Check Valve / Drain Flapper: Function and Failure Modes

The check valve prevents dirty water from flowing back into the tub after the pump shuts off. If it sticks closed, the dishwasher will not drain properly. If it becomes warped, backflow can occur. If the flapper is stiff, cracked, or scaled over, replace the hose assembly that contains it.

Step-by-Step Drain Test Procedure

1. Cancel the current cycle by pressing and holding Start/Pause for five seconds.

2. Turn the unit off, then back on.

3. Select the Rinse cycle and press Start.

4. Watch whether the unit fills slightly and then drains completely within about two minutes.

5. If water remains, remove the filter and check the sump for debris before inspecting the pump or hose.

Why Are Dishes Not Drying in My Samsung DW80CG5451S?

This model uses a combination of residual heat, AutoRelease door opening, and optional heated dry to dry dishes. When dishes come out wet, the issue is often rinse aid, drying settings, or a failed heating component.

Heating Element: AutoRelease Dry and Failure Signs

AutoRelease drying opens the door slightly at the end of the cycle to let steam escape. This works well for most loads, especially when rinse aid is used, but plastics and concave items may still hold water. If heated dry is selected and dishes are still very wet, test the heating element. It should read between 10 and 30 ohms. An open reading confirms failure.

Vent and Vent Fan: How It Works and Failure Symptoms

Some versions use an active vent fan to move humid air out of the tub during drying. If that fan fails, steam remains trapped and condenses back onto the dishes. If you do not hear the vent fan during drying and dishes are consistently wet, test the motor for continuity.

Rinse Aid Dispenser: Sheeting Action and Adjustment Dial

Rinse aid is one of the most important factors in drying performance. It helps water sheet off dishes rather than form droplets. If the rinse aid indicator is low, refill it. If dishes are still wet and spotted, increase the dispenser dial one step at a time.

Thermistor: How It Communicates with the Control Board

The thermistor tells the control board when water has reached the correct temperature and when the drying phase should continue. If it sends an incorrect signal, the board may shorten or skip heating. If rinse aid and the heating element check out, test the thermistor. A faulty thermistor for this model is part number DD82-01118A.

Samsung DW80CG5451S Leaking: Where to Look and What to Replace

A leaking dishwasher should be addressed quickly to avoid damage to flooring and cabinets. The location of the water on the floor usually points you to the most likely source.

Door Gasket / Door Seal: Sealing Function and Replacement Triggers

The door gasket runs around the inner perimeter of the door frame and compresses against the tub when closed. Over time, it can become brittle, crack in the corners, or flatten out so it no longer seals properly. Food debris can also push it out of place.

Inspect the full gasket path and look for cracks, tears, pulled sections, or water beading near the bottom of the door after a cycle. These are strong signs the gasket needs replacement.

Water Inlet Valve: Location, Slow Drip Causes, and When to Replace

The water inlet valve sits behind the lower kick plate on the left side of the unit. If the valve body cracks or the solenoid sticks partially open, slow drips can collect in the base pan and trigger the leak sensor. If you find water in the base pan and all hose connections are tight, the valve is a likely suspect.

Tub Sump Area: Pump Housing Seal and Tub Cracks

The sump is the lowest area of the tub where water collects before the pump draws it up. If the pump housing seal degrades or its screws loosen, water can seep under the unit during the wash cycle. Less commonly, the tub itself can crack from impact. Active dripping from the sump area points to a housing or seal failure.

Identifying Leak Source by Location

• Front of unit, bottom of door: Door gasket

• Under front left of unit: Inlet valve or supply hose connection

• Directly under center of unit: Drain pump housing seal or sump gasket

• Under rear of unit: Drain hose connection at the pump or sink connection

Before You Start: Safety Precautions and Tools You Need

Safety First: Disconnecting Power and Water

Before touching any internal component, turn the dishwasher off at the control panel, then disconnect power completely. For hardwired units, shut off the dedicated breaker. For plug-in units, unplug the power cord under the sink. Verify the display remains dark.

To shut off water, close the angle stop valve under the sink by turning it clockwise until it stops. If the valve is stuck or corroded, use the main household shutoff instead.

Tools Required

• Torx T20 screwdriver

• Flathead screwdriver

• Needle-nose pliers

• Digital multimeter

• Bucket

• Old towels or absorbent pads

• Flashlight or headlamp

Where to Find the Model and Serial Number

The model and serial number label is located on the inner door frame, visible when the door is fully open. It is usually on the left side near the top. You will need both numbers for parts ordering or service requests.

How to Clean the Filter on a Samsung DW80CG5451S

How the Filter System Works

The DW80CG5451S uses a two-stage manual filter system. The outer coarse filter catches large food particles, while the fine mesh filter traps smaller debris before water reaches the pump. This design is quieter than self-cleaning grinder systems, but it requires regular manual cleaning.

Signs the Filter Needs Cleaning

• Standing water remains in the tub after the cycle

• A sour or musty odor comes from the tub

• Dishes have gritty or cloudy residue

• Spray pressure seems weak

Step-by-Step: Cleaning the Filter

1. Remove the lower dish rack completely.

2. Locate the filter assembly at the bottom center of the tub.

3. Grip the cylindrical filter and turn it counterclockwise about a quarter turn.

4. Lift the cylindrical filter out.

5. Lift the flat fine-mesh filter panel out by its front tab.

6. Rinse both filters under warm water and scrub gently with a soft brush if needed.

7. If grease buildup is heavy, soak the filters in warm soapy water for five minutes first.

8. Reinstall the flat filter first, then insert the cylindrical filter and turn it clockwise until it locks.

9. Replace the lower rack and run a short rinse cycle.

How to Replace the Drain Pump on a Samsung DW80CG5451S

What the Drain Pump Does and How to Confirm It Has Failed

The drain pump forces used water out of the sump and through the drain hose. When it fails, water stays in the tub and may trigger drain-related error codes. To test it, disconnect the wire harness and measure resistance across the motor terminals. A healthy pump usually reads between 5 and 30 ohms. An OL reading confirms motor failure.

Parts and Supplies Needed

• Drain pump assembly: DD31-00005A or compatible equivalent

• Replacement O-ring if needed

• Towels and a bucket

• Torx T20 screwdriver

• Needle-nose pliers

Step-by-Step: Replacing the Drain Pump

1. Disconnect power and shut off the water supply.

2. Remove both racks, the lower spray arm, and the filter assembly.

3. Place towels around the unit and prepare a bucket for residual water.

4. Remove the screws holding the sump cover plate and lift the plate out.

5. Locate the drain pump, disconnect the wire harness, and release the drain hose clamp.

6. Rotate the pump counterclockwise to unlock it and pull it out.

7. Compare the old and new pumps, transfer the O-ring if needed, and install the new pump.

8. Reconnect the hose and wire harness, then reinstall the sump cover, filter, spray arm, and racks.

9. Restore power and water and run a full cycle to confirm proper draining.

How to Replace the Door Gasket on a Samsung DW80CG5451S

Inspecting the Seal

Run your fingers around the full gasket path, especially the bottom corners where leaks often start. Look for cracks, pulled sections, flattening, or mold buildup that has stiffened the rubber. If any of these are present, replacement is justified.

Correct OEM Gasket Part Number

The correct door gasket part number for this model is DD81-02004A. Confirm compatibility against your exact model label before ordering.

Step-by-Step: Replacing the Door Gasket

1. Disconnect power to the dishwasher.

2. Open the door fully and peel the old gasket out of the retaining groove, starting at a bottom corner.

3. Clean the full gasket channel with a damp cloth and let it dry.

4. Start at the top center of the new gasket and press it into the groove, working outward toward the corners.

5. Use a small amount of dish soap as lubricant if the rubber is stiff.

6. Press the bottom corners in last and make sure the gasket sits flush with no bulging.

7. Close the door, check compression, and run a short cycle to confirm the leak is gone.

How to Replace the Water Inlet Valve on a Samsung DW80CG5451S

What the Inlet Valve Does

The water inlet valve is an electromechanical solenoid valve that controls how much water enters the tub during the fill phase. When the control board sends voltage to the solenoid, the valve opens. If it fails closed, the dishwasher gets 4C-style fill errors. If it fails partially open, it can cause slow overflow or leaks into the base pan.

Testing with a Multimeter

Disconnect the wire harnesses from the solenoid terminals and measure resistance across each coil. A functioning solenoid on this model typically reads between 500 and 1,500 ohms. An OL reading indicates an open coil, while a near-zero reading indicates a short.

Step-by-Step: Replacing the Inlet Valve

1. Disconnect power and shut off the water supply.

2. Remove the lower kick plate by taking out the top screws.

3. Locate the inlet valve on the left side of the base.

4. Place towels or a bucket underneath, then disconnect the supply hose.

5. Release the clamps on the outlet hoses and disconnect them, keeping track of their positions.

6. Disconnect the wire harness connectors and remove the mounting screws.

7. Install the new valve, reconnect the wires and hoses, and secure all clamps and screws.

8. Reinstall the kick plate, restore water and power, and run a full cycle while checking for drips.

Most-Replaced Parts for the Samsung DW80CG5451S

When to Replace the Control Board vs. Repair It

Control board replacement should be a last-step diagnosis, not the first thing to try. Before replacing it, confirm that the pump, heating element, thermistor, and inlet valve all test correctly. A board replacement on this model is more expensive than simpler parts and requires careful handling of connectors and ribbon cables.

If you are seeing multiple simultaneous error codes and all downstream components test correctly, the board becomes a reasonable final suspect. In some areas, Samsung-authorized service centers may offer board reflashing or repair as an alternative to full replacement.