You open the freezer drawer expecting a full bin of ice, and instead you find nothing, or a few half-formed cubes fused together. On the Frigidaire FRFS2823AS, this is one of the most common repair searches, and in many cases the culprit is either the ice maker switch, the freezer temperature, or the ice maker assembly itself. This guide helps you figure out which one you are actually dealing with before you spend money on a part you do not need.
Before replacing the assembly, start with the simple checks first. Many ice maker problems on this model come from settings, temperature, or water supply issues rather than a failed module.

The Real Owner of This Problem: Is It Really the Ice Maker Assembly?
Before ordering a new ice maker assembly, it is worth ruling out the most common look-alike problems that can stop ice production without requiring any parts.
| Check This First | Why It Matters | How to Check |
|---|---|---|
| Ice maker on/off switch | It is often bumped off by accident when loading the freezer. | Look for a small switch or button on the front or side of the ice maker unit. |
| Freezer temperature | Ice makers need consistently cold temperatures to cycle correctly. | Set the freezer to 0 to 5 degrees F and wait 24 hours before judging results. |
| Water supply and line | A kinked or frozen line will stop ice production even if the assembly is fine. | Check behind the fridge for a kink and confirm the water valve is turned on. |
If all three of these checks pass and the ice maker still is not producing ice, or it is producing small, hollow, or oddly shaped cubes, the ice maker assembly itself becomes the most likely failure point.
What Actually Lives Inside the Ice Maker Assembly
The ice maker assembly on the FRFS2823AS is not just one simple part. It is a compact module that contains several components working together:
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A mold or tray where water freezes into cube shapes
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A small motor and gear system that rotates the ejector arm to release finished cubes
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A thermistor that reads the temperature of the ice mold and tells the module when the ice is ready to release
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An infrared beam or optical sensor that detects how full the ice bucket is and shuts production off once it is full
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A water inlet trigger that signals the water valve to refill the mold after each cycle
Because these parts are built into one sealed module on this model, Frigidaire does not usually sell most of them individually. When the thermistor, motor, or optical sensor fails, the normal repair is to replace the entire ice maker assembly rather than trying to repair one internal piece.
Real-world service reports on the FRFS2823AS series have specifically pointed to failed tray temperature circuits and thermistor faults as recurring causes of intermittent or total ice production loss.
Symptoms That Point Specifically to a Failed Assembly
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No ice production at all, even after confirming power, water supply, and freezer temperature are correct
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Ice maker cycles and makes noise but never actually ejects cubes
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Cubes are small, hollow, or clumped together into a solid block
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Ice production works intermittently, running for a while and then stopping without explanation
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Water leaks from the ice tray door area, which can point to a misaligned valve trigger inside the assembly
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The ice maker never seems to know when the bucket is full and either keeps running or never starts a new cycle
Why the Assembly Fails
There is rarely just one cause. In practice, ice maker assemblies on this model tend to fail for one of these reasons:
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Component fatigue: The internal motor, gears, and thermistor are mechanical and electronic parts that wear out with age and thousands of freeze-and-eject cycles.
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Thermistor drift: Over time, the thermistor can start reading temperatures incorrectly. Even a small error can throw off the entire freeze and harvest cycle.
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Frozen or jammed ejector arm: If water leaks into the wrong area of the tray and refreezes around the ejector arm, the motor can stall and eventually burn out.
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Electrical connection issues: The wiring harness that connects the assembly to the refrigerator control system can loosen, corrode, or become pinched during freezer drawer use.
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Water quality and mineral buildup: Hard water can leave mineral deposits inside the fill tube and mold area over years of use, affecting both cube shape and cycle completion.
Step-by-Step Guide to Replace the Ice Maker Assembly on the FRFS2823AS
Once you have ruled out the switch, temperature, and water supply and confirmed the assembly itself is the problem, replacement is usually a manageable weekend repair.
What you will need: a nut driver or small screwdriver, and the replacement ice maker assembly. Frigidaire OEM part 243297608 is commonly used across the FRFS2823AS series, though you should always confirm it against your specific model tag before ordering.
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Unplug the refrigerator, or at minimum switch off the ice maker and shut off the water supply line at the valve.
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Lift the ice bucket up and out of the freezer drawer to expose the ice maker assembly mounted above it.
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Locate the mounting screws holding the assembly to the freezer wall and loosen them with a nut driver.
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Disconnect the wiring harness plug from the back of the assembly before fully removing it.
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Lift the old assembly free once it is unscrewed and unplugged.
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Compare the new assembly to the old one to confirm it matches before installing.
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Reconnect the wiring harness to the new assembly first, before mounting it.
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Mount the new assembly to the freezer wall using the same screw holes and tighten the mounting screws.
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Replace the ice bucket in its original position.
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Restore power and water supply, then allow up to 24 hours for the first full batch of ice to cycle through, since the mold needs time to reach freezing temperature.






